End year round up of Vegetable Varieties.

This year's crops were less than stellar.

Broccoli - Arcadia = Average size, bland taste, purple leaves in the cold

Cauliflower - Symphony - Average Size, Sweet Taste, Strong Smell!, not cold tolerant

Cabbage - Bronco - Average Size, Good taste, Slow Growing

Head Lettuce - Excalibur - Good Size, Good Taste, High % of deformed heads

Carrots - Sweetness II - Excellent Size, taste and tolerance!

Zucchini - Meteor - Horrible, few zucchinis, poor taste

Jalapeno Pepper - El Jefe - Excellent growth, taste, fruit size, and diseases/insect resistance

Okra - Cajun Delight - Short plant, slow growth, good pod production

Cantaloupe - Athena - Excellent all around

Cucumber - Sultan - Excellent growth, sweet taste, slightly oily cucumber

Bell Pepper - X3R Red Knight - Excellent growth, taste, diseases resistance

Tomato - Big Beef - Good Growth, Large excellent tasting tomatoes, poor resistance to leaf spot

Tomato - Rose - Large plant, large tomato, good taste, few tomatoes


As you can tell, few of the varieties really stood out this year, but that is what the garden is for! We have to weed out the bad ones so you don't waste your time growing them.

For your spring garden I would recommend:

Cabbage - Parel

Broccoli - Premium Crop

Cauliflower - Fremont

Head Lettuce - Tiber

Carrots - Sweetness II or III

These would need to be planted out side around the first of March.

Fall Garden Update

It's never too early to plan for spring...what do I do now?

Planning for the spring"

In the Landscape

-Cut back ornamental grasses and liriope before new growth begins to emerge.

-Prune summer flowering shrubs like beautyberry, butterfly bush, Clethra, Vitex, and summer blooming spireas in late winter to encourage lots of new growth and heavy flowering.

-Prune everblooming roses in late February. Everblooming roses, such as hybrid teas and Knockout roses, rebloom continuously through the summer. Once bloomers bloom only in the spring and include many species roses and old shrub varieties. Once bloomers should not be pruned until after they finish flowering.

-Crape myrtles usually only require light pruning. Remove crossing branches and inward growth and cut off seed pods. Never hack back into large branches! Known as topping, this practice ruins the natural shape of crape myrtles and promotes insect and disease problems.

-Control winter weeds now by hand pulling or careful spot spraying will ensure your beds look good this spring and also stop weeds from setting seed for future crops.

-Winter is also a great time to spread mulch in the landscape. Aim for a maximum depth of 3” to 4” around trees and shrubs and 2” to 3” around perennials. Do not pile mulch around the trunks of trees and shrubs.

Vegetable Garden

-Plant a cover crop of winter rye on your garden by mid November at the latest

-Plant spring crops in the garden in late February to early march

-Winter is a great time to send off a soil sample. Obtain your supplies from the Cooperative extension office.

Lawn

-Aerate and seed your lawn in mid September.

-Do not fertilize your lawn during the winter when no growth is present. This will simply be a waste and can cause nutrients to be washed into our waterways.

-Plan to apply a pre-emergent herbicide for spring germinating weeds in late winter

As the Thunder Rolls and the Rains Fall.....

In late summer, as the thunder rolls and the rains fall, keeping us inside; we have the chance to recall all we've done and the results we've gotten. Life is that way. We work and work at all sorts of things and if we don't take a day for ourselves, mother nature will force it upon us. A day like this is important in our lives and it's also important in gardening. We've worked all summer trying to grow a bumper crop and we need to take our time now to know what worked and what didn't. There are literally thousands of varieties of crops we can grow and some simply grow and produce better than others. For example; this year I grew a new zucchini called meteor in our demonstration garden. This was a solid yellow zucchini that promised high yields and great flavor. Well, as I reflect; nothing could be farther from the truth. The plant is hard to grow and must be planted when it is hot outside to thrive. Oh wait did I say thrive? Well thriving to this plant is producing a bland yellow zucchini from time to time. Not a winner and not a useful plant. Well, back to the drawing board, but that's the reason we have a demonstration garden. That way the public will know what to grow and won't have to bother with experimenting with poor producers. So during this lull, take the time to review your vegetables and see what worked and what didn't.

While we are reviewing our successes and failures, we must begin to think about fall. I know it seems early but it is time to start thinking about what you will grow and where you will grow it. Don't be afraid to pull out those old worn out tomatoes and replace them with your fall crop. Come November you will be happy to have fresh vegetables.

So, what do we do? Start crops of cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower and head lettuce indoors under florescent lights the first or second week of August. This way they will be ready to go in the garden the first couple of weeks of September. Contrary to what some believe, the crops grow great in the warm fall weather. They only need to mature in cool weather. This why fall frost hardy crops are generally better in the fall than the spring.

So take rainy days to reflect and plan for next year and for this fall. A garden that is planned out properly always produces more than one haphazardly thrown together. Remember, gardens are like people; they need love and care to be successful and proper planning is the first step in that love and care. Enjoy your fall gardens and if you have questions, contact me and I'll get you going in the right direction. scott_welborn@ncsu.edu

Do you have Bermuda grass growing in your Fescue lawn?

If you have a Fescue lawn then you probably hate common Bermuda grass. The grass that creeps into everything and can out right kill your Fescue lawn if it's not beaten back. In the past all we could do was dig it out or spray it with a non-selective herbicide and risk killing everything near it. Now we are lucky to have another option. There is a herbicide that will allow you to kill Bermuda grass in a fescue lawn. It is called Ornamec. The active ingredient is known as "Fluazifop". According to the label, to kill Bermuda grass in a Fescue lawn, use .5 ounces of Ornamec, 2 teaspoons of a non ionic surfactant to one gallon of water to treat 1000 square feet of lawn space. The first application should be made in the spring when the Bermuda grass is breaking dormancy and then again in Sept/Oct. when the Bermuda grass is preparing for dormancy. APPLICATIONS DURING THE HOT SEASONS SHOULD BE AVOIDED! Even when applied at the proper times, your fesuce lawn may show some discoloration or stress but should recover within 10-14 days so do not worry if it looks sick. This is also labled for use over the top of many ornamental flowers, trees and shurbs, but refer to the label before applying to determine if it is registered for what you want to spray over. Wow, this can really make your life much better. You have to love modern science. Happy Spraying.

Demo/Research Garden Photo Update!!

Well it's been about a month and a half since the spring garden was planted and now the summer crops are going in. The spring vegetables are looking great and will be harvested soon. You will also notice our new fence. The fence was low cost and really makes the garden look better. I want to thank the Master Gardener Volunteers for their assistance on building the fence. Couldn't have done it without them. Now if we just have a warm moist summer maybe we can have some good summer crops as well!

Spring has sprung!

It's true, spring is here in a big way. We had a very cold winter but the spring is trying to repay us with a beautiful display. Below are a few pictures I have taken in our demo flower and vegetable gardens here at the agricultural center.

The Broccoli is looking good but i've had to fight a few aphids this spring.
Garlic is getting big!
Our organic tulips are making a magnificent display!

Companion Planting

BEANS

Companions: Beet (to bush beans only), cabbage family, carrot, celery, chard, corn, cucumber, eggplant, pea, potatoes, radish, strawberry. Enemies: Garlic, onion and shallot stunt the growth of beans.

Allies: Marigold deters Mexican bean beetles. Nasturtium and rosemary deter bean beetles. Summer savory deters bean beetles, improves growth and flavor.

BEETS

Companions: Bush beans, cabbage family, lettuce, onion Ally: Garlic improves growth and flavor.

Enemies: Pole beans and beets stunt each other's growth.

CABBAGE FAMILY
(Broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, cauliflower, Chinese cabbage, kale and kohlrabi)

Companions: Beet, celery, chard, cucumber, lettuce, onion, potato, spinach. Allies: Chamomile and garlic improve growth and flavor. Catnip, hyssop, rosemary and sage deter cabbage moth. Dill improves growth and health. Mint deters cabbage moth and ants, improves health and flavor.

Nasturtium deters bugs, beetles, aphids. Southernwood deters cabbage moth, improves growth and flavor. Tansy deters cabbageworm and cutworm. Thyme deters cabbageworm. Enemies: Kohlrabi and tomato stunt each other's growth.

CARROTS

Companions: Bean, lettuce, onion, pea, pepper, radish, tomato

Allies: Chives improve growth and flavor. Rosemary and sage deter carrot fly. Enemy: Dill retards growth.

CELERY

Companions: Bean, cabbage family and tomato

Allies: Chives and garlic deter aphids. Nasturtium deters bugs and aphids.

CHARD

Companions: Bean, cabbage family and onion

CORN

Companions: Bean, cucumber, melon, parsley, pea, potato, pumpkin, squash Enemies: Tomatoes and corn are attacked by the same worm.

Allies: Odorless marigold and white geranium deter Japanese beetles. Pigweed raises nutrients from the subsoil to where the corn can reach them.

CUCUMBER

Companions: Bean, cabbage family, corn, pea, radish, tomato Enemy: Sage is generally injurious to cucumber.

Allies: Marigold deters beetles. Nasturtium deters aphids, beetles and bugs, improves growth and flavor. Oregano deters pests in general. Tansy deters ants, beetles, bugs, flying insects.

EGGPLANT

Companions: Bean, pepper

Allies: Marigold deters nematodes.

LETTUCE

Companions: Beet, cabbage family, carrot, onion, radish, strawberry

Allies: Chives and garlic deter aphids.

MELONS

Companions: Corn, pumpkin, radish, squash

Allies: Marigold deters beetles. Nasturtium deters bugs and beetles. Oregano provides general pest protection

ONlONS

Companions: Beet, cabbage family, carrot, chard, lettuce, pepper, strawberry, tomato Enemies: Onions stunt bean, pea.

Allies: Chamomile and summer savory improve growth and flavor. Pigweed raises nutrients from subsoil and makes them available to the onions. Sow thistle improves growth and health.

PARSLEY

Companions: Asparagus, corn, tomato

PEAS

Companions: Bean, carrot, corn, cucumber, radish, turnip

Allies: Chives deter aphids. Mint improves health and flavor. Enemies: Garlic and onion stunt the growth of peas.

PEPPERS

Companions: Carrot, eggplant, onion and tomato

POTATOES

Companions: Beans, cabbage family, corn, eggplant, pea Enemies: Tomatoes and potatoes are attacked by the same blight.

Allies: Horseradish, planted at the corners of the potato patch, provides general protection. Marigold deters beetles.

PUMPKINS

Companions: Corn, melon, squash

Allies: Marigold deters beetles. Nasturtium deters bugs, beetles. Oregano provides general pest protection.

RADISHES

Companions: Bean, carrot, cucumber, lettuce, melon, pea

Allies: Chervil and nasturtium improve growth and flavor. Enemy: Hyssop

SPINACH

Companions: Cabbage family, strawberry

SQUASH

Companions: Corn, melon, pumpkin Allies: Borage deters worms, improves growth and flavor.

Marigold deters beetles. Nasturtium deters squash bugs and beetles. Oregano provides general pest protection.

STRAWBERRY

Companions: Bean, lettuce, onion, spinach, thyme Enemy: Cabbage

Allies: Borage strengthens resistance to insects and disease. Thyme, as a border, deters worms.

TOMATOES

Companions: Asparagus, carrot, celery, cucumber, onion, parsley, pepper Enemies: Corn and tomato are attacked by the same worm. Mature dill retards tomato growth. Kohlrabi stunts tomato growth. Potatoes and tomatoes are attacked by the same blight.

Allies: Basil repels flies and mosquitoes, improves growth and flavor. Bee balm, chives and mint improve health and flavor. Borage deters tomato worm, improves growth and flavor. Dill, until mature, improves growth and health. Once mature, it stunts tomato growth. Marigold deters nematodes. Pot marigold deters tomato worm and general garden pests,

TURNIPS

Companion: Pea Source: North Dakota State University Extension

Farm To Fork Video

Community Gardens for Our Future

When we think about food, we know it's no farther than the local grocery store. For most of us, we have known nothing but a safe, secure and plentiful food supply for our whole lives, but recently things have begun to change. Each week there seems to be a new warning about unsafe products coming from overseas or from right here in our own state. The question is, how can we fix it? This question is especially perplexing for residents of urban areas that may not have the option of growing it themselves. With little debate the only way to do something about it locally is to develop a system of community gardens.

Community gardens have been used with much success in large cities for years. Only recently have they become a hit in smaller urban areas. Small urban areas generally have an advantage that large cities do not, land. Land is normally the biggest issue in starting a community garden. In our larger cities such as Lexington, and Thomasville there are many vacant lots that would make perfect places for well maintained community gardens. The key is to enter into contacts with the owners of these parcels that will limit or eliminate the liability factors involved. Once this is done the rest is downhill.

Generally, once land has been secured, the process of getting people involved is fairly easy. There are many people that love growing vegetables and would love to be able to do it in a social way. Community gardens are extremely effect venues for bringing communities together. This has tremendous effects on the community as a whole and has been known to change the whole dimension of a neighborhood from distant to extremely close.

Community gardens should be in the planning of any urban area and ours is no different. Community gardens bring people together and allow for an additional source of food for those growing and those in need. Giving people a reason to enjoy their community is simply rational thinking and when people create/grow things together, the rewards and benefits are exponential. Davidson County's urban areas have a lot to offer those looking to begin a community garden. Begin with a dream and change a community in the process.

Yes it's winter but time to gear up for that spring garden!

Wow time passes quickly and it's time again to think about our spring garden. I know it's cold outside now but soon it will be warming up. Now is the time to begin planning what you want to plant in your spring garden and begin to grow your seedlings. This is easy to do and all you need is a couple of florescent lights and some soil-less mix. I'm a big advocate of growing one's own plants. If you rely on the local nursery or big box store, you will have very few varieties to choose from. By growing your own, you can choose from literally hundreds of varieties. By growing the best varieties you can ensure a much better harvest! If you don't have a greenhouse, florescent lights are the next best thing. Simply buy a cheap florescent shop light (or two) from your local hardware store and and out fit it with normal cool white florescent lights. There is no need to buy expensive "grow lights". The key to growing under these lights is to germinate seeds in a community flat and then transplant them deeply into cell packs after they have come up. This will eliminate excessive stretching of the plant while it has limited leaf area. Most plants need to be grown for about 4 weeks inside and then need to be hardened off for another week by exposing it to conditions outside slowly, a few hours the first day to all day by the end of the week. This helps the plants to not be shocked by the harsh outdoor conditions, compared to the ease of life under florescence lights.

For the spring garden you should be planting cabbage, cauliflower, lettuce, broccoli, etc. The spring garden is for cool loving vegetables than can handle frost. The crops should be transplanted outside by the first to no later than the middle of March.

For the Summer garden you should be planting crops such as tomato's, peppers, eggplant. Crops such as watermelon, cantaloupe, cucumber, squash, beans and corn tend to do better when planted directly in the garden from seed. All of these should be planted outside around May 1st in our area.

Happy Growing!!